
“My drive’s not mounting! My Masterpiece! Noooooooo!!!!â€â€¨
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Yup, many of us in the post-production industry have been in this exact situation. The truth is: most failures are due to USER ERROR. There ARE thousands of reasons why your external firewire drive may have failed, but regardless of reason we’re going to breakdown troubleshooting into three major categories so you can hopefully save your drive and save your a$$.
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BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING! Try these sanity checks.
Connect external firewire drive to a different firewire port on your computer.
Attempt USB 2.0. connection (if possible).
Try a different Firewire cable.
Try a different power cable.
Try connecting to a different computer.
Drive still not mounting? Okay, lets get into some nitty gritty here. For each problem, we are first going to focus on drive troubleshooting and then move to data recovery.
1.) Physical Damage: Has your drive been dropped, spilled on, burst into flames, ran over by a truck; does it make clicking noises, spin iradically, or fail to make power up and altogether?
2.) Case Issues: Firewire bus failures inside the case itself are the second most common cause of drives not mounting.
3.) Bad Directory Structure: Saying bad directory structure is really broad but I’m basically saying - somewhere along the lines you had a bad string of data written onto the disk itself.
Onto repair and/or data recovery.
Physical Damage

This is the worst of all problems. If you are experiencing any of the above problems, power down your drive immediately and focus on data recovery. If your drive has been fucked hard with a sledge hammer, expect to pay big bucks to have some dudes in a clean room dig through it microscopically.
Here’s a short list of Data Recovery services who don’t advertise charging and an arm and a leg.
NationwideDataRecovery.com
Gillware.com
EcoDataRecovery.com
Case Issues
If you’ve ruled out physical damage, lets next turn to case issues and how to troubleshoot them. I will explain in detail how to free your hard drive from its firewire enclosure and then either swap cases or install your drive into a G4 or G5. (The following pics and instructions use a typical LaCie enclosure with and internal parallel drive.)
STEP ONE: Get your drive out.

Unscrew #1, bend the back plate a bit, and twist off the other screw by spinning the backpate in a propellor type motion. If you don’t care about your warranty - just pierce the sticker and unscrew both screws normally.

With the backplate off, slide the drive forward (my drive is actually upside down in the picture, don’t be alarmed).

Remove the two screws holding the firewire bus in place.

Unsnap the top of the firewire bus and remove it from the case.

Remove the parallel tape and power supply from the hard drive.

Remove the three screws on the back of the internal drive case.

Nice work. You have now freed your hard drive from LaCie’s confines.
At this point you have a couple of options. If you have another working firewire enclosure, you could pop that drive out too and simply swap the drives (installing by reversing the above process). If your drive mounts, SWEET! All you need is new firewire case. If you drive fails to mount, keep reading.
IF YOU HAVE A G4:
Using an G4 to install your newly removed parallel drive is actually preferred because the G4’s original drives are all parallel drives as well. Hooking your firewire drive inside your G4 may not work if you’re still running OS 9, even if you formatted your firewire drive to be Journaled and OS 9 enabled.

Hello G4. Make sure your computer is turned off and unplugged.

Open the case - sweet. Get rid of your static electricity. Zap your cat or hamster or something instead.

There’s your empty drive slot.

Plug in parallel tape and power supply. Close the case and restart.
IF YOU HAVE A G5:
(disclaimer)
This next step is more of an IDEA. In theory, this should work. The drive used in the follwing photos would not mount at all, and I was only able to save my files by using a data rescue program (continue further down the post). I can’t think of too many reasons this won’t work in practice, but at least I’ll show you the simple mechanics (if you have experience with this, please reply at the bottom).
Even though your G5’s internal hard drives are serial drives, your G5’s optical drive remains parallel.

Hello G5. Power Down and unplug this biatch too. AGAIN, be sure not to zap the innards with your static electricity.

Unplug the optical drive’s parallel and power ports. Shrink your hands if neccessary.

Plug it in, and let it hang…or prop it up or something. Maybe use ducktape - who knows?
I’m guessing it will mount on your desktop after that, but no guarantees. Let me know.
Bad Directory Structure
If your directory structure is fucked up enough to prevent the drive from mounting - then this is actually a pretty serious problem. Through a few troubleshooting steps, we will attempt to figure out exactly how up shit creek you are.
Unfortunately, 90% of the time bad data is written to your drive is a result of human error. Before you call up LaCie or Maxtor and start bitching, ask yourself: Did I unplug the drive before properly ejecting the disk from the desktop? Was I a careless operator and not using a UPS (Uninterruptable Power Supply - ie. battery backup) during a storm, power surge, or while the dog chased his ball into the electrical outlet and unplugged the computer?
Even if you’re guilty here, you can most likely receive a replacement drive from your manufacturer as long as your drive is still under warranty. You WILL need a proof-of-purchase, and DO NOT EXPECT THEM TO PAY FOR DATA RECOVERY. Drives fail - expect it and prepare. Do yourself a favor and pickup one with a 5 year warranty (like Seagate) instead of a cheapo 1 year warranty (Mator) - (ed. note: As of 12/22/2005 - Maxtor and Seagate have merged so lets hope they won’t be sharing parts and fucking up Seagate’s quality. Seagate bought our Maxtor to the tune of $300 million in hopeful annual savings….damnit…).
If you DON’T CARE ABOUT DATA RECOVERY, try running Apple’s Disk Utility and simply erase the disk. It will probably work again with a restart - but keep your eyes open for trouble. I wouldn’t trust my drive with important info after that - but I’m a paranoid SOB who doesn’t like loosing shit (try it once, you’ll be converted immediately). So who knows, you might reformat the drive and use it for many trouble free years. Your call.
ASSUMING YOU DO CARE ABOUT DATA RECOVERY, at this point we either need to get the drive to mount temporarily after a series of patches, use data recovery software, or start crying.
Lets try to avoid the tears.
STEP ONE:

Open Apple’s Disk Utility. Even though its not mounted to the desktop, hopefully Disk Utility will see the drive and even if you can’t select it. Try VERIFYING the disk but DO NOT REPAIR the disk under any circumstances unless the VERIFY process confirms the disk can be fixed. REPARING a faulty disk may cause more problems and prevent you from further data recovery.
We don’t want that.
Try the more or less the same thing with ALSOFT’S DISK WARRIOR (invauble software). Its about $100 bucks, so if you can’t find a friend to borrow the CD from, buy it. Seriously, Disk Warrior will save you many many headaches down the road if you use it as preventative maintanence. I’ve been a broke-ass student too, so contact your school’s MAC LAB IT gal or guy and see if you can borrow it.
We use Disk Warrior on the PF machines anytime there is a huge movement of media between drives. In essence, Disk Warrior is a bad-ass hard drive de-fragmenting program. It rules!
If your drive continues not to show up in either Apple’s Disk Utility or Alsoft’s Disk Warrior, all is not lost, but start preparing for the worst.
STEP TWO:

Go to your drive manufacturer’s website and look for FIRMWARE updates under SUPPORT. Firmware is a big deal, and somehow its very important to how shit works but nobody can really give you a laymen’s explanation on what the hell it does (…its file structure shit…or something).
The reason this is step two is because some firmware updates can accidentally erase your drive. Yeah.
So be careful. If you’ve done your homework concerning your OS and your manufacturer’s firmware update, proceed with confidence. However, if you’ve come this far in the trouble shooting, a firmware update is probably not going to work anyway.
STEP THREE:

If your drive is still not mounting, but showing up in either both or one of the disk utilities, its time to BUY YOUR ASS A DATA RECOVERY PROGRAM!!! Look, its either that or your first born….you decide from here on out how important the info is to you.
Okay, I know. “I can’t afford it! What if it doesn’t work!â€
If you’re trying to save all your precious pirated mp3s, then yes, you probably can’t afford it. But if the shit on the drive is important enough to you - you can afford $100 bucks for a data recovery program. Trust me. Housing 200 hours of work and 5 FCP projects? Yeah - lets do it.
I have one data recovery program recommendation. PROSOFT ENGENEERING’S DATA RESCUE
If an “over the counter” data recovery program doesn’t work for you - then unfortunately, its time for you to call some data recovery pros. Good luck.
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another good techie article on this issue